
RUDDER DAMAGE
On November 28, 2008, Thanksgiving
weekend, we prepared for a nice sail with some friends and Harry's daughter
Kelly. Unfortunately, the day ended abruptly when, while navigating through
the center of the channel at John's Pass, we suddenly lost steering.
Fortunately, we were heading straight, so we went about half a mile past the
sea buoy and dropped the hook. We began checking everything to see why the
steering was jammed. Our friend Aloha was crazy enough to jump into
the cold water and check for crab traps jammed in the rudder – but no luck.
We disconnected the auto pilot, followed the steering cables from the wheel
to the steering quadrant. - still no luck...we had to be towed in. Oddly
enough, within 30 minutes of us losing steering through John's Pass, another
sailboat lost its rudder. This lead us to believe there was something wrong
with the channel.

Aloha goes overboard to check for crab traps in the rudder.
We contacted the other towed boat the next day
and found out that he had hit bottom in the middle of the channel and
completely lost his rudder. He said he saw his depth sounder go from 12 feet
(chart reading) to 5 feet in a second and he draws 6 feet. Totally ripped
his rudder off! We did not think this was our problem because we never
felt anything. Nonetheless, Harry put his wet suit on and went over the side
to check out the rudder. He found that our rudder was jammed into the
hull of the boat and the rudder post was ripped out of the rudder. He
tried to move the rudder but it would not budge an inch. It appeared that
although we felt nothing, we definitely hit bottom in the middle of the
channel and that was the cause of our problems.

Harry getting ready to go overboard to check the rudder damage.
After a couple of months of untimely low tides, very cold
weather and lack of man power delaying the removal of the rudder, we
finally got it together and got the old rudder off without having to
pull the boat out of the water. It was a chore, but it's done. Saying it
was a chore was an understatement. First we had to remove the gudgeon
from underneath. Then we began using an 8 lb. sledge hammer and hitting
the rudder post. Well, not really we, it was more like our good pal Zach
(the best damn diesel mechanic I have ever met) from Superior Marine
Service ( 727-542-2456 ) that did all of the banging. And the post
would move only about an eighth of an inch per whack.

Zach and Harry pounding out the rudder post.
Once the post was knocked down about 6 inches, it wouldn't seem do
go any further, so we had to cut the stuffing box with a grinder to relieve
pressure from where the rudder post had been bent. Finally, after the final
whack – and this thing fought us all of the way down to the final whack –
the rudder post let go and the rudder dropped. Our diver, who was
patiently waiting under the boat, immediately hammered a wooden plug into
the hole from beneath the boat so we would always have the water pressure
forcing it upward.

In this photo you can see the very top of the rudder post stuck in the
stuffing box which was cut open to relieve pressure.
We had floats already tied to the rudder and post. Our diver simply
swam it over to the floating docks and we pulled it up for observation.

Our diver, Rodney, floats the damaged rudder to the dock.

Harry inspects the damage to the rudder.

This picture shows how the rudder post was bent and ripped away from the
rudder.

Damaged Rudder
We took the rudder post to four places around
the St. Petersburg area. We did research online and found Foss Foam in
Ocala, FL. They had a pattern for our rudder as they had replaced CSY
rudders in the past. We then found another place online that was located in,
of all places, Idaho. Harry sent them several questions. After
much communication, questions and answers with Joel Santarone, the General
Manager, we chose IdaSailor (
www.idasailor.com ) to build our
new rudder. Below are their responses to some of our questions, along
with photos of our rudder being built:

Internal stainless steel reinforcements are oriented horizontally to the
post for the greatest torque transfer, tabbing welded vertically is much
weaker.

Vacuum bagging the rudder skins increase tensile strength of the core/skin
bond, a failure of this bond leads to rudder failure.

All-stainless internal post and web structure which is then electropolished
to prevent future corrosion. Cheaper rudders will use mild steel welded to
stainless rudder post.

Wrapped fiberglass layup over shaped cores prevent the secondary bond
failure between molded rudder halves that is often the source of water
intrusion and eventual rudder failure.
Post-finished construction methods allow for a much improved
rudder foil shape and fairness, especially in trailing edges, which reduces
parasitic drag.
Epoxy layup rudders, being both stronger and impervious to osmotic
blistering are warranted for three years against defects in materials or
workmanship.

Finished rudder.